Combined seaming and pinking machine



y 1, 1939. G. STEVENSON 7 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937 10 Sheets-Sheetl GEOFFREY 61-5 vslvo/v y 1, 1939. e. STEVENSON 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING AND ,PIQKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937 10 Sheets-Sheet2 w a v 9 V i 1 Q 1 Q I N I Q: I T a j L R i V m R v 8%- 1% W *8 Q wk CK s e 0 W Q 4% m 7 :3 R? Z] L 1 S J l GEOFFREY Srevewsou 1939-GQSTEVENSON 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING' AND PINKING MACHINE 'Filed May 14. 1957 10Sheets-Sheet s y 1939. e. STEVENSON COMBINED SEAMING AND FINKING MACHINEFiled May 14, 1937 10 Sheets-Sheet 4 .Gson nsr S'nsvsnsou at Saw;

July 11,1939. G. STEVENSON comamm SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May14; 1937 10 Sheets-Sheet 5 GEOFFREY STEVEN-SON amt MW y 1939. G.STEVENSON 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937 10 Sheets-Sheet6 awe/whom GEOFFREY STEVENSON 1, 1939. a. STEVENSON 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937' 10 Sheets-Sheet7 1939. G. STEVENSON 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937 10 Sheets-Sheet8 12W, GEOFFREY STEVENSON y I 7 s. STEVENSON 2,165,312

COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937 l0 Sheets-Sheet9 GEOFFREY Srsvszvsozv y ,1939. G. STEVENSON 2,165,312

' CQMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed May 14, 1937 10Sheets-Sheet 10 Fig.2

' Georrnsr SrEVEMw/v PatentedJuly 1"1,l1 939t "it I I 1 2 1 312 UNITEDSTATES PATENT oF- ice Geoffrey Stevenson, Brookline, Mass.

ApplicationMay' 14, 1937, Serial No. 142,696

67 Claims. (Cl. 112 -122) This invention relates to new and usefulimtion will be more clearly understood by following provements in sewingmachines generally, althe description, the appended claims, and thethough more particularly to a combined seaming several views illustratedin the accompanying and pinking machine. drawings.

5 The trimming mechanism per se forms the In the drawings: a 5 subjectmatter of my divisional application Serial Figure 1 is a front elevationof a sewing No. 170,913, filed October 25, 1937. machine embodying myinvention, the pinking One of the principal objects of the inventionunit being depressed below the bed plate, is to provide an edge trimmingmechanism which Figure 2 is a bottom plan view thereof,

is normally positioned for cooperation with the Figure 3 is a top planview of the bedzplate as 10 stitching mechanism to trim the work abovethe shown in Figure 1', the view showing the presser base or work plateand in timed relation to the foot and throat plate, and also showing thecover needle reciprocations, and which is depressible plates in closedpositions,

, so as to leave the upper face of the base unob- Figure 4 is asimilarview, but showing the. u structed for the free passage of work duringplain cover plates removed, seaming operations. Figure 5 is an enlargedvertical longitudina Another object of the invention is to providesectional view through the bed plate showing the a combined seaming andpinking machine which pinking unit in its depressed position,

contains a selective mechanism for varying the Figure 6 is a similarview but showing the pinkratio of pinks formed by the pinking mechanisming unit in its elevatedvor working position, 20 to the number ofstitches formed by the stitch Figure 7 is a vertical longitudinalsection taken forming mechanism. through the bed plate and the pinkingunit,

Another object of the invention lies in the Figure 8 is a vertical crosssection taken on the provision of such selective mechanism with meansline 8--8 of Figure 6, v 26 for silencing the pinking mechanism wheneverFigure 9 is a vertical cross section taken on the 5 so desired. line 9 9of Figure 6,

Another object of the invention is to provide 'F gure 10 isa detailvertical cross section showa variable gear reduction unit in the drivingconng the 095 for limiting the upper and lower nections between the mainshaft of the machine Positions the D g unit,

and the reciprocatory pinking knife, which in- Figure 11 is a detailplan view showing the 30 cludes a manually operable means for selectingD nklng u n i s ev P s together with t the desired gear reductioncoupling of the unit, a plate which covers the'opening immediately in orfor rendering ineffective the entire unit. front o t unit,

Another object of .the invention is to provide Figure 11 is aperspective view of the filler a machine of the characterdescribedwhereby plate shown in Figure 11, 35 both edges of layers of fabricsmaybe pinked, Figure 2 is atop plan v ew s ow the Dinking or whereby theedge of one layer only may be unit in its elevated or working position,together pinked, or whereby the fabrics may be seamed with a C p gua dfor Preventing the Chips f without pinking either fabric. fouling theneedle and for permitting said chips Another object of the inventions'to provide to gravitate through a space at the right of the 40 a chipdeflector for preventing the chips from reciprocatory knife t we p nbelbw t e bed i fouling the needle and from being deposited on Plate,the Dinked fabric. Figure 13 is a vertical longitudinal section taken Afurther object of the invention resides in through the bed plate butshowing the pinking providing a-separating plate over which a body unittogether with the chip guard in frontelefabric may be fed withouttrimming or pinking vatin; the same, and which also cooperates with thFigure 14 is a detail vertical section taken ledger blade to assist thelatter in resisting the through the pinking unit and chip guard, upwardpressure of the reciprocatory knife dur- Figure 15 is a perspective viewof the chip ing the cutting stroke of the latter. guard;

A still further object of the invention is to Figure 16 is a plan viewsimilar to Figure 12 provide knife driving means which incl'udesmeansbut showing a separating plate and a hemmer subd for adjusting thestroke of the knife. stituted for the chip guard,

I With these and other objects in view which Figure 1'7 is a centralvertical longitudinal sec;

will more fully appear, the nature of theinvention thereof, 55

7 having superposed hemmers attached thereto,

Figure 20 is a central vertical longitudinal section showing therelation between the pinking unit and the combined separating plate andhemmer shown in Figure 19, I

Figure 21 is a perspective view of the pinking unit,

Figure 22 is a perspective view showing the supporting lever and theledger blade holder in separated relation,

Figure 22 is a perspective view of the upper cutting element, I

Figure 23 is a perspective view of the knife lever and the knife mountedthereon,

Figure 24 is an enlarged front elevation of the control mechanism forthe pinking unit,

Figure 24 is a detail elevation of the manually operable controlelement,

Figure 25 is a vertical longitudinal section thereof,

Figure 26 is a left end elevation of the control mechanism, the sewingmachine arm and main shaft being shown in section, and the clutch collarlocking lever being shown in its inoperative position,

Figure 27 is a detail section taken on 21-41 of Figure25,

Figure 28 is a detail section taken on the line 28-28 of Figure 25,

Figure 29 is a detail 'section taken on the line 29-49 of Figure 25,

Figure 30 is a perspective view of the manually operable controlelement,

Figure 31 is a detail section taken on the line 3|-3| of Figure 26, and

Figures 32 to 38 are perspective views showing various seams which canbe formed by my invention.

Referring to the drawings, my invention includes a sewing machine whichembodies a main frame A having a base or bed plate 5, a standard 6, ahorizontal arm 1 which projects from the upper end of the standard andextends longitudinally over the base, and a stitching head 8 which ismounted on the free end of the arm 1, said base being provided with alongitudinal opening 9 under said head. The base 5 is provided at itsends with integral and depending bearing arms 5 5, and with integral anddepending front and rear longitudinally extendingwalls 5, 5 as well asan integral and depending bearing arm 5 which is spaced from the bearingarm 5. The upper surface of the base 5 is milled along the s1des of theopening 9 to form resultant front and rear depressed seats 9 9'. A mainshaft I0 extends longitudinally of and is journaled in the line the armI. A vertically reciprocatory needle bar ll carrying a needle 12, ismounted in the head 8 and is driven from the main shaft by the usualconnections which reciprocate-the needle once for every rotation of themain shaft. A throat plate l3 which is supported by the seats 9, .9 ofthe base and extends centrally across the opening 9, is provided with aneedle opening 14 adjacent the right hand edge thereof and with feedslots l5. The portions of the opening 9 on opposite sides of the throatplate are adapted to be closedby removable cover plates 16 and I1respectively which are slidably mounted on the seats 9, 9*. A presserbar I8 is mounted in the head 8 and fixed to the lower end thereof is apresser foot l9 which is positioned directly above the throat plate l3and is provided with a needle opening 20. An intermittent 4-motion feeddog 2| is positioned in the feed slots 15 of the throat plate forcooperation with the presser foot to feed 1 the work rearwardly and isoperated from the main shaft in the usual manner. Cooperating with theneedle to form stitches is a rotary loop taker or hook 22 which islocated below the cover plate l6 and on the left hand side of theneedle. This hook is mounted on a vertical shaft 23 which is journaledin a bracket 24 attached to the base. A horizontal shaft 25 is journaledin the bearingarms 5 and 5 below the base 5 and the standard 6 and isdriven at a 2-to-1 ratio from the main shaft 10 by a belt 26. Thevertical shaft 23 is driven from the shaft 25 through the medium of ahorizontal shaft 21 which is journaled in the depending bearing arms 5*,5 and l-to-l gear couplings 28' and 29, the shaft 21 being located belowthe needle and in spaced relation to the base. It will be noted that theshaft 21 extends longitudinally of the base and is disposed in thevertical plane containing the needle.

A trimming mechanism is disposed on the right hand side of theneedle, 1. e., on the side of the needle opposite the rotary loop taker.This trimming mechanism includes an upper cutting elementor ledger bladeB and a cooperating lower cutting element or knife 0. The upper elementB is separate from the presser foot l9, and when said element is in itseffective or cutting position, it is disposed above the plane of thebase 5. Both cutting elements B and C are mounted on a support D whichis located below the base, the elements and the support being adjustablelongitudinallyof the base as a unit whereby the distance between theline of seam of the fabrics and the trimmed edge thereof may be varied.Furthermore, both elements are movable upwardly as a unit through theopening 9 of the base to an effective or operating position, ordownwardly as -3l, 31 on lugs 32, 32 projecting downwardly from thebase, the lever thus being fulcrumed on a horizontal axis which isparallel to the line of feed and is located below the base opening 9 andthe standard 6. Rigidly connected to and depending from the free end ofthe supporting lever D are spaced hanger arms 33, 33 and the under faceof the supporting lever is provided with a central.

longitudinal groove 34.

A coil spring d is interposed between the base 5 and the supportinglever and functions to urge the lever downwardly, the upper and lowerends of the spring being positioned in seats respectively formed'in theunder face of the base and in the upper face of the lever.

A manually operable means for elevating the support D includes a bracket38 which is attached to the under face of the base 5 in front of andintermediate the ends of the support. A horizontal cam shaft 39 isjournaled in the bracket and fixed to said shaft is a cam 40 whichengages the under face of the supporting lever D directly in front ofthe groove 34 therein. The cam shaft 39 is provided with a dependingcrank arm 41 A vertically disposed lever 42 is fulcrumed intermediateits ends as at 43 to the front wall 5 of the base 5. The lower arm ofthis lever is connected by a link to the crank arm 4| and the upper armof said lever projects through a longiport D against the tension of thespring (1. A stop 3 50 is attached to the bracket 38 and. functions tolimit the downward movement of the support D when the cam 40 is moved inthe opposite direc tion. A stop screw 5| is threadably engaged in ,thesupport D for cooperation with the under face of the base 5 tovariablylimit the upward movement of said support.

Mounted in the groove 34 of the supporting lever D for adjustmentstowards and from the needle I2, is a holder E for the upper cuttingelement B, the holder being provided with longitudinal slots 52, 52through whichclamping screws 53 pass into the lever D. The holderE isthus normally clamped to and supported by the lever D and isconsequently movableup and down therewith, but can be adjustedlongitudinally of the base when so desired. The right hand end of theholder is provided with spaced and upwardly projecting arms 54, 54 whichproject between the arms 30, 30 of the supporting lever D and support ahorizontal pivot pin 55. Rigidly connected 5 to the left hand end of theholder and disposed in registry with the base opening 9 at the right ofthe throat plate is a neck 56 which terminates at its upper end inspaced horizontal arms 51, 51 which project towards the needle, and theupper cutting element or ledger blade B is rigidly mounted on' said armsby screws 58, 58.

The upper cutting element or ledger blade B is provided with a V-shapedopening 59 forming resultant cutting edges 69,60 which converge towardthe needle l2 and merge at the apex 6i at an angle of less than 90; andwith depending guide lugs 62, 62 to prevent the escape of the lowercutting element or knife C from registering relation with the led erblade in the most open working position of the knife, as well as toserve as a gage for the material. The bladeB is also provided withspaced attaching arms 63, 63 which rest upon the spaced supporting arms51, 51 and are secured thereto by the screws 58.

A lever F which supports the lower cutting element or knife 0 is mountedfor vertical reciprocations on the support D through the medium of theholder E. This knife lever F is locatedtunder the holder E and isprovided at the end Opposite the knife C with an upwardly projectingrigid arm 64 which is fulcrumed on the horizontal pivot pin 55 of theledger blade holder E. A knife arm 65 is pivoted at itslower end toswing about a horizontal pivot 66 mounted in the free end of the leverF, and the upper end of the arm projects upwardly. towards the openingof the ledger blade B. The knife C is mounted on the arm 65 for verticaladjustments by means of a clamping screw 61 carried by the knife and aslot 68 formed in the arm. The knife C is V-shaped' in cross sectionforming converging cutting edges 69, 69 which enter into and cooperatewith the cutting edges 60, 60 of the ledger blade to perform the pinkingoperation. The knife C is presented at an inclination to the ledgerblade and the plane of the cutting edges 69, 69 is oblique to thelongitudinal axis of the knife so that the rear corners of the knife arein advance of the apex during the cutting operation, with the countershaft '11.

the result that the two pairs of' cooperating cutting edges have pointcontact which .advances toward the apex'as the cutting progresses by theentry of the knife C into the ledger blade B, the

cutting terminating when the two apices coincide.

The knife C yields about the pivot 66 during the cutting operation, theedges 69, 69 crossing the cooperating edges of the ledger blade but theangle of the faces of the knife C being less 'in the plane of the ledgerblade than that of the ledger blade opening whereby the knife 0 mayenter into the ledger blade. This angular re1a tion between the cuttingedges ,of the ledger blade and the cutting edges of the knife isdisclosed and claimed in the patent to Gruman 1,891,308, December 20,1932. The cutting edges of the knife are maintained in yieldableengagement 'with the cutting edges of the ledger blade during cuttingmovements of the knife, by-means of acoll sprin 10 which isadjustabiyanchored at oneendtothe arm- 64 of the krgfe lever F by an adjustablescrew 1| and'nut 12, and by a link' 13 'which is connected at one end tothe other'end of the spring, and at its other end tothe' lower end ofthe knife arm 65 below the pivot 66 thereof by ascrew 14. A manuallyoperable cam 15 is mounted on the lever F for cooperation with the'knifearm 65 to positively retract and retain the knife C from contact withthe ledger blade B whenever it is desired to change the knife.

The knife C is adapted to be reciprocated from the main shaft I 9 intimed relation to the needle reciprocations by a driving mechanism Gwhich includes a manually selective means for effecting the formation ofeither a greater or a lesser number of stitches to each pink cut by theknife C, or for silencing the knife. A bearing bracket 16 'is attachedto the under face of the horizontal frame arm 1, and journaled in thisbracket is a longitudinally extending counter or driven shaft 11 whichparallels the main shaft ID, the left I hand end .of the shaftprojecting beyond the bracket 16. A ball eccentric 18 is fixed to a stopcollar which is secured to the right hand end of- A transverselydisposed rock shaft 19 is journaled in the depending bear-'- ing arm 5of the base, and the rear end thereof is provided with a horizontallyextending rock arm which is pivotally connected as at 8| t the lower endof a vertical link or pitman 82 to. v

which extends upwardly through an opening'83,

in the base and has its upper end connected to the ball eccentric 18 onthe counter shaft. Fixed to the front end of the rock shaft 19 is adepending rock arm 84 having a segmental slot 85 extendinglongitudinally thereof. A horizontal rock shaft 86 is journaled in thelower ends of the depending arms 33, 33 of the supporting lever D, and arocking frame 81 is journaled on said shaft intermediate saicl arms. Therocking frame 81 comprises a hub 88 which surrounds the shaft and isrigidly connected thereto by a transverse pin 89, together with spacedrock arms 98, 98 which are integral with the hub and project upwardly atan inclination towards the free end of the knife supporting lever F, thearms being pivotally connected to said free end of the lever F by links9|, 9|. Fixed to'the front end ofthe rock shaft 86 is an upstanding rockarm 92 which is pivotally connected to one end of a link 93, the otherend of the link having an adjustable connection 94 with the rock arm 84and the segmental slot 85 therein, whereby the vertical stroke of theknife C maybe varied.

Relatively large and small driving gears 95, 96

jecting end of the counter shaft 11 and is in constant mesh with thedriving gear 96. The driven gear 91 is provided with a hub 98 on whichis loosely journaled a relatively small driven gear 99 which is inconstant mesh with the driving gear 95, the gear 99 being provided witha hub I which surrounds the hub 98. The outer ends of the hubs 98, I00terminate in the same transverse plane, and a clutch collar IN is fixedon the counter shaft 11 and is positioned directly against the outerends of said hubs.

The ratio of the gear coupling 96, 91 is threeto-one, and the ratio ofthe gear coupling 95, 99 is two-to-one, although it will be understoodthat different ratios may be employed if desired; It will be apparentthat as thus far described both gear couplings are free to rotatewithout either one imparting rotation-to the counter shaft 11. Selectiveclutch connections (Figs. 25 to 30.) are provided between the clutchcollar IOI and the hubs 98, I00 of the driven gears 91, 99 wherebyeither gear may rotate the counter shaft 11 and thereby reciprocate theknife C, or whereby both driven gears may be disconnected from theclutch collar to effect the silencing of said knife. To this end, amanually operative control collar I02 is journaled on the outer end ofthe counter shaft and has sliding contact with the outer face of theclutch collar IM and is held against outward longitudinal movement by anut I03 mounted on said counter shaft. The hubs 98, I00 are respectivelyprovided with longitudinal bores I04, I05 which ex tend inwardly fromthe outer ends of the hubs and are positioned eccentrically with respectto the counter shaft 11, the bore I00 having a shorter radius than thebore I05. The clutch collar IOI is provided with longitudinal openingsI06, I01 which are located eccentrically with respect to the countershaft 11 and in a common radial plane, the openings being adapted toaline with the counten bores I00, I05 respectively. Formed in the innerface of the operating control collar I02 are concentric cam grooves I08,I09, which are arranged on opposite sides of the counter shaft 11, thegrooves having different radii whereby the grooves may alternatelyregister with the openings I06, I01 of the clutch collar IN, the groovespreferably having lengths of less than 90. Slidably mounted in the-boreI04 and opening I06 are clutch pins IIO, III which are urgedoutwardlytowards the control collar I02 by a spring II2 seated in said bore.Slidably mounted in the'bore I05 and opening I01 are clutch pins I I3, II I which are urged out,-

' wardly towards the control collar I02 by a spring H5 seated in saidbore. The outer ends of the pins III, II4 are preferably provided withantifriction balls H6, H1. The periphery of the control collar I02 isknurled as indicated at H8, and a spring finger H9 is attached to theperiphery of the clutch collar IOI for cooperation with said knurledperiphery to retain the control collar in any position of adjustment. v

Formed on the periphery of the clutch collar IOI is a longitudinallyextending indicating line I20, and formed on the periphery of thecontrol collar I02 at diametrically opposite points and intermediate thecam grooves I08, I09 are identifying indicia I2I, I22 for the clutchgrooves I08, I09, said indicia preferably consisting of the numerals 2and 3, the former being associated with the groove I09 which controlsthe clutch for the are fixed to the main shaft I0. A relatively largedriven gear 91 is loosely journaled on the protwo-to-one gear coupling95, 99, and the latter being associated with the groove I08 whichcontrols the clutch for the three-to-one gear coupling 96, 91. i

It will be apparent that in one position of angular adjustment of thecontrol collar IOI, the cam groove I09 will register with the clutch pinopening I01, but that the cam groo e I08 will not register with theclutch pin opening I06, and vice versa, and that in another position ofangular adjustment of the control collar both cam grooves will be out ofregister with said clutch pin openings.

It will be apparent that when the control collar I02 is rotated to alinethe number 2 thereon with the indicating line I20 on the clutch collarIOI, the clutch pins H3, H4 will be projected outwardly by the springH5, the outer end of the pin H0 will be moved into the cam groove I09,and the pin I I3 will be projected across the abutting faces of the hub98 and the clutch collar IOI whereby the two-to-one gear coupling 95, 99will be clutched to the counter shaft 11 to reciprocate the knife C onceduring the formation of every two consecutive stitches.

It will be also apparent that when the control collar I02 is rotated180, the number 3 will be alined with the indicating line I20 on theclutch collar IOI, the clutch pins IIO, III will be projected outwardlyby the spring I I2, the outer end of the pin III will be moved into thecam groove I08, and the pin IIO will be projected across the abuttingfaces of the hub 98 and the clutch collar IOI whereby the three-to-onegear coupling 96;

91 will be clutched to the counter shaft 11, to reciprocate the knife Conce during the formation of every three consecutive stitches.-

It will be further apparent that when the control collar I02 is rotatedto a position wherein both cam grooves are out of register with theclutch pins, the abutting ends of the pins IIO, III, and H3, H4 willregister with the abutting faces of the hubs 98, I00 and the clutchcollar I02, whereby both gearunits will be unclutched from the countershaft 11, with the result that the counter shaft will remain stationaryand the knife C will be silenced.

at I24 to the former, both parts, however, being removably attached tothe arm 1 by screws I25, I25.

A locking lever I for the clutch collar IOI extends partially around andunder said collar and is fulcrumed intermediate its ends as at I26 tothe stationary part I23 of said gear casing, the front end of the leverbeing bent forwardly as at I21 to form a fingerpiece, and the rear endof the lever beyond the fulcrum I26 forming a lever arm I28. Attached toan ear I29 which extends rearwardly from the stationary part I23 of thegear casing is a plate I30 having spaced recesses I3I and I32 formed inits outer face. A springpressed pin I33 is mounted in the arm I28 of thelocking lever I for cooperation with either of the recesses I3I, I32 toretain said lever in either one of its extreme positions. Fixed to thelever I and projecting inwardly therefrom is a stop pin I34 which uponupward movement of the lever I is adapted to be positioned in a radialrecess I35 formed in the clutch collar IOI and thereby lock said collaragainst rotation. Thus when the locking lever I is elevated to lock theclutch collar machine for a combined seaming and pmking.

operation,.the cover plate I1 is retracted or removed, and the cuttingelements B, C, are then elevated from the position shown in Fig. 5 tothe position shown in Fig. 6. The selectedgear coupling is then clutchedto the counter shaft by first manually rotating the main shaft andswinging the lever I upwardly to it's operative position which looks theclutch collar-against rotation. The control collar I02 is then manuallyrotated until the number 2 or number 3 thereon is brought into registerwith the indicating line I20 on the clutch collar ml, at which time theassociated clutch pin H or II3 will then become effective to clutch theassociated gear coupling .eccentric 48 will be swung to the right, thenthe l lever 42- will be swung to the right which will rock the cam 40 tothe right to permit the spring '11 to depress the holder D together withthe cutting elements B, C to their ineffective or inoperative positionas shown in Fig. 5. The knife C is sicover plate I1 is returned to itsnormal position.

The lever I is of course retained in its operative position in order topermit the driven gears 91, 99 to revolve freely without rotating thecounter shaft... The silencing of the knife can be performed eitherbefore or subsequent to the depression of the cutting elements. Themachine is then ready to scam without pinking, as shown in Fig. 32.

When the upper cutting element or ledger blade B is in its elevated oroperative position as shown in Fig. 6, it is in a horizontal planespaced above the upper surface of the base 5 for permitting both edgeportions. of superposed fabrics or the edge portion of the lower fabricto be fed thereunder and pinkedJ In order to support this edge portionor portions against sagging into the opening 9 of the base 5 immediatelyin front of the lower cutting element C, I have provided an L- shapedfiller plate I40 (Figs. 11, 11 12) which is attached, subsequent to thecutting elements being elevated, to the front seat 9 of the base 5 by I5 downwardly through the heel portion of the ledger blade opening 59,that is, between the attaching arms 63, 63 of said blade and on theright of the knife C as viewed in Fig. '14. This deflector J comprises abase plate I45 having an 5 'opening I46 which surrounds the ledger bladeknife thengdlewn'and terminating at its subsequcntlydirected by thedeflectorwall- I41 the knife C. This plate is provided with anopenopening 59, and ,a semi-conical deflector wall I41 mounted onthebase, the deflector projecting upwardly from the base at a pointintermediate the right hand end .in aivertically. disposed opening ormouth I48. Theohips which-aref'cut fromthe fabrics by the cuttingelements B, C, are succes sively pushed upwardly by the knife C and aretowards the right as viewed in Fig. 14 and over said knife, from whencethey gravitate through the heel of the opening 59 to a point below thebase 5. Thus, the deflector J not only functions to prevent the chipsfrom fouling the needle, but also functions to avoid the chips frombeing deposited on the pinked fabric. The base I45 is mounted on theledger blade B by means of a depending pin I49 which is seated in anopening I50 formed in one of the arms 51 of the holder E and by aclamping screw I5I which threadably engages in an opening I52 formed inthe other arm 51. The base plate I45 is therefore superposed on theledger blade B and is firmly held thereagainst by said clamping screw toform a solid backing for said blade and thereby retain said bladeagainst beingmoved by the thrust of the knife C. The front portion ofthe base overlies the filler plate I and attached to saidbase portion bya screw I53 is an arm I54 having at its 35 left end a depending edgeguide I55for'the fabrics and a horizontal fabric guide I56 whichpro-.jects in front ofthe presser foot I9,said guides" I55, I56 beingemployed,'ifdesired, when forming the seams shown in Figs. 33 and 34.

In Fig. 35, I have shown 'the two superposed fabrics I31, I38 united bythe line of stitches I36, but the lower fabric I38 only has been pinked.

This operation is produced by, directing the edge i portion of the lowerfabric below the ledger blade B and by directing the edge portion of theupper fabric above said ledger blade, whereby the cooperating blades B,C, will pink the lower fabric only. In performing this operation, Ipreferably employ the filler plate I40, and also a separating plate I51shown in Figs. rs, 19, 20. This separating plate I51 is mounted on thearms 51, 51

of the holder E by means ofa depending pin I58 which is seated in theopening I50 of one of said arms and by the clamping screw I5I whichthreadably engages in the opening I52 of the other arm. The plate I51 istherefore superposed on the ledger blade B and is firmly heldthereagainst by said clamping screw. Thus the separating plate I51 notonly serves to maintain the edge portion of the upper fabric separatedfrom the movable knife C, but also serves as a solid backing for theledger blade B for maintaining the latter against being moved by thethrust of ing I58 which is slightly larger than the opening of theledger blade, the opening I58 permitting the pinking chips passingupwardly therethrough. g

In Fig. 36, I have shown a seam wherein the edge portions of the fabricsI31, I38 are overlapped, the fabrics being turned under inoppositedirections to form hem folds I59, I60, the hem fold I60 beingpinked as at I39, and wherein the line of stitches joins the fabrics andthe hem upper and lower hemmers I58, I62 as shownin separating plateI51! by a screw 953.

In Fig. 37, I have shown another seam wherein the edge portions of thefabrics ltl, E38 are overlapped, the upper fabric being turned under toform a hem fold ltd, the lower fabric being pinked as at I39, andwherein the line of stitches I36 joins the fabrics and the hem fold. Inorder to form this seam, I have provided a hemmer H65 as shown in Figs.16, 17 and 18 and have attached said hemmer to the separating plate l5?by said screw ltd.

In Fig. 38, I have illustrated another seam wherein the edge portions ofthe fabrics i375, I38 are overlapped, the upper fabric being turnedunder to form a hem fold Hit and the lower fabric being turned over toform a hem fold it'll, the hem fold Hit being pinked as at B39, andwherein the line of stitches H6 joins the fabrics and the hem folds.This seam is formed by superposed hemmers (not shown) mounted on theseparating plate WI. The combined seaming and pinking operations shownin Figs. 35, 36, 37 and 38, are referred to in the trade as topstitching operations, and I believe that I am the first to provide acombined seaming and pinking machine in which a stationary ledger bladeis disposed above the base and a reciprocatory knife cooperatestherewith for pinking one or more of the edges of the superposed orlapped layers being seamed.

It is of course to be understood that the details of structure andarrangement of parts may be variously changed and modified withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of my invention.

I claim:

1. The combination of a sewing machine including a frame having a base,a main shaft, and a vertically reciprocatory needle operated by saidshaft; and a trimming mechanism comprising a ledger blade spaced abovethe basepa lever pivoted below the base for oscillations about ahorizontal axis, a knife mounted on said lever for cooperation with theledger blade, means for maintaining the blade and knife in yieldableenagement with each other during cutting movements of the knife, andoperating connections between the lever and the main shaft forreciproeating the knife in timed relation to the needle reciprocations.

2. The combination of a sewing machine including a frame having a base,a main shaft, and a vertically reciprocatory needle operated by saidshaft; and a trimming mechanism comprising a stationary ledger bladespaced above the base, a lever pivoted below the base for oscillationsabout a horizontal axis, a knife pivotally mounted on said lever forcooperation with the ledger blade, means cooperating with the knife andlever for maintaining the knife in yieldable engagement with the ledgerblade during cutting movements of the knife, and operating connectionsbetween the lever and the main shaft for reciprocating the knife intimed relation to the needle reciprocations.

3. The combination of a sewing machine i eluding a frame having a base,a main shaft. and a vertically reciprocatory needle operated by saidshaft; and a trimming mechanism comprising a'stationary ledger bladespaced above the base, a lever pivoted below the base for oscillationsabout a horizontal aids, a knife mounted on said lever for cooperationwith the ledger folds. In order to form this scam, I have provided.

blade, and operating connections between the lever and the main shaftfor reciprocating the knife in timed relation to the needlereciprocations, including a rocking lever and link pivotally connectedto said lever.

4.. A combined seaming and trimming mechanism including a verticallyreciprocatory needle and a base having an opening at one side of theneedle, a support mounted below the base to oscillate about a horizontalaxis, a ledger blade spaced above the opening and mounted on thesupport, manually operable means for normally retaining the supportagainst swinging movement, a knife lever mounted on the support belowthe base to swing about a horizontal axis, a knife mounted on said leverand projecting upwardly through said opening for cooperation with saidledger blade, said ledger blade and said knife lever being mounted onthe support for lateral adjustments towards and from the needle, and I5. A combined seaming and trimming mechal nism including a verticallyreciprocatory needle and a base having an opening at one side of theneedle, a support mounted below the base to oscillate about a horizontalaxis, a holder mounted on said support and having an end projectingupwardly through said opening, a ledger blade spaced above the openingand mounted on the projecting end of the support, manually operablemeans for normally retaining the support and holder against swingingmovement, a knife lever located below the holder and fulcrumed theren toswing about a horizontal axis, a knife mounted on said lever andprojecting upwardly through said opening for cooperation with said I'will be in an ineffective cutting position below the base.

6. The combination of a sewing machine 1ncluding a base, a stitchforming mechanism com prising, a vertically reciprocatory needle, avertical shaft journaled below the base at one side of the needle, arotary loop taker mounted on the upper end of said shaft for cooperationwith the needle, a horizontal driving shaft for the vertical shaftjournaled below the base and disposed under the needle,'and a trimmingmechanism located on the other side ofthe needle, said trimmingmechanism including upper and lower cooperating cutting elements, andsupporting'means for the elements mounted below the base and above thedriving shaft.

7. The combination of a sewing machine including a base, a stitchforming mechanism comprising a vertically reciprocatory needle, avertical shaft journaled below the base at one side of the needle, arotary p taker mounted on the upper end of said shaft for cooperationwith the needle, a horizontal driving shaft for the vertical shaftJournaled below the base and disposed under the needle. and a trimmingmechhlsm located on the other side of the needle, said trimmingmechanism including upper and lower cooperating cutting elements, andsupporting means for the elements mounted belowthe base and above thedriving shaft, said elements being adjustable as a unit relative totheir supporting means towards and from the needle.

8. The combination of a sewing machine including a base and a verticallyreciprocatory needle, and a trimming mechanism comprising upper andlower cooperating cutting elements, the upper element being normallydisposed above the base and the lower element being supported below thebase, and means for effecting a depression of the cutting elements to anineffective cutting position with respect to the base.

9. The combination of a sewing machine including a base and a verticallyreciprocatory needle, and a trimming mechanism comprisingupper and lowercooperating cutting elements, the upper element being normally disposedabove the base and the lower element being supported below the base,said elements being bodily adjustable as a unit towards and from theneedle, and means for effecting a depression of said cutting elements asa unit to an ineffective cutting position below the base.

10. A combined seaming and trimming mechanism including a verticallyreciprocatory needle and a base having an opening at one side of theneedle, a support mounted below the base to oscillate about a.horizontal axis, a ledger blade spaced above the opening and mounted onthe support, means for retaining the support against swinging movement,a'knife lever mounted on the support below the base to swing about ahorizontal axis, a knife mounted onsaid lever and projecting upwardlythrough said opening for cooperation with said ledger blade, said ledgerblade and said knife lever being mounted on the support for lateraladjustments towards and from the needle, and means for oscillating saidknife lever. r r, v 11. A combined seaming and trimming mechanismincluding a vertically reciprocatory needle anda base having an openingat one side of the needle, "9; support mounted below the base tooscillate about a horizontal axis, a holder mounted on said support andhaving an end projecting upwardly through said opening, a ledger bladespaced above the opening and mounted on the projecting end of thesupport, means for retaining the support and holder against swingingmovement, a knife lever located below the holder and fulcrumed thereonto swing about a horizontal axis, a knife mounted on said lever andprojecting upwardly through said opening for 00- operation with saidledgTer blade, said ledger blade and said knife lever being mounted onthe support for lateral adjustments towards and from the needle, andmeans for oscillating said knife lever including rocking lever and linkconnections in'-. terposed between the holder and the lever.

, 12. The combination of a sewing machine including a frame comprising abase, a standard, a laterally extending arm, a horizontal main shaftjournaled in the 'arm, a vertically reciprocatory 'needle mounted on thearm and operatively con-\ nected to the main shaft, a loop taker mountedbelow the base on one side of the needle for cooperation with thelatter, and means for driving the loop taker from the main shaftincluding a horizontal shaft supported below the base, and drivingconnections between said shafts located within the standard; and apinking mechanism located on the other side of the needle and comprisingupper and lower cooperating cutting elements, the upper element beingspaced above the base, and means located below the base and operated byone of the horizontal shafts for actuating the lower cutting element intimed relation to the needle reciprocations.

13 The combination of a sewing machine including a frame comprising abase, a standard, a laterally extending arm, a horizontal main shaftjournaled in the arm,'a vertically reciprocatory needle mounted on thearm and operatively connected to the main shaft, a loop taker mountedbelow the base on one side of the needle for cooperation with thelatter, and means for driving the loop taker from the main shaftincluding a horizontal shaft supported below the base, and

driving connections between said shafts located .reciprocations.

14. The combinationof a' sewing machine in- .cluding a base and avertically reciprocatory needle, and a pinking mechanism comprising aledger blade spaced above the base and provided with an opening formingconverging cutting edges, and a vertically reciprocatory knife supportedbelow the base and. having converging cutting edges for cooperation withthe cutting edges of the ledger blade, said ledgerbl'ade and said knifebei'ng bodily adjustable as a unit towards and from the needle. 1

15. The combination of a sewing machine including a base and avertically reciprocatory needle, and a pinking mechanism comprising aledger blade spaced above the base and provided with an opening formingconverging cutting edges, and a vertically reciprocatory knife supportedbelow the base and having converging cutting edges for cooperation withthe cutting edges of the ledger blade, said ledger blade and saidknifebeing bodily adjustable as a unit towards and from the needle, andmeansfor effecting the depression of the ledger blade and the knife toan ineffective cutting position below the base.

16. The combination of a sewing machine including a frame comprising abase, a standard, a laterallyextending arm, a horizontal main shaftjournaled in the arm, a vertically reciprocatory needle mounted on thearm and operatively connected to the main shaft, a loop taker mountedbelow the base on one side of the needle for cooperation with thelatter, and means for driving the loop taker from the main shaftincluding a horizontal countershaft supported below the base, anddriving connections between said shafts located within the standard; anda pinking mechanism located on the other side of the needle andcomprising a ledger blade spaced above the base provided with an openingforming converging cutting edges, a vertically reciprocatory knifesupported below the base and having converging cutting edges forcooperation with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, and meanslocated below the base and operated by one of the horizontal shafts foractuating the lower cutting element in timed relation to the needlereciprocations. I

17. A combined seaming and pinking mechanism including a base and areciprocatory needle, a ledger blade provided with an opening formingconverging cutting edges, a vertically reciprocatory knife provided withconverging cutting edges on its upper end for cooperation with thecutting edges of the ledger blade, means located below the base forsupporting the blade and knife, and means for reciprocating the knife intimed relation to the needle reciprocations.

18. A combined seaming and pinking mechanism including a base and areciprocatory needle, a ledger blade provided with an opening formingconverging cutting edges, a vertically reciprocatory knife provided withconverging cutting edges on its upper end for cooperation with thecutting edges of. the ledger blade, vertically movable means locatedbelow the base for supporting the blade and knife, means forreciprocating the knife in timed relation to the needle reciprocations,and manually operable means cooperating with said supporting means forraising said blade and knife from an ineffective cutting position belowthebase to an effective cutting position wherein the ledger blade isdisposed above the base, or for effecting a depression of said blade andknife to said ineffective cutting position.

19. A combined seaming and pinking mechanism including a base and areciprocatory needle, a ledger blade provided with an opening formingconverging cutting edges, a vertically reciprocatory knife provided withconverging cutting edges on its upper end for cooperation with thecutting edges of the ledger blade, vertically movable means locatedbelow the base for supporting the blade and knife, means forreciprocating the knife in timed relation to the needle reciprocations,and manually operable means cooperating with said supporting means forraising said blade and knife as a unit from an ineffective cuttingposition below the base to an effective cutting position wherein theledger blade is disposed above the base, or for effecting a depressionof said blade and knife to said ineffective cutting position.

20. A combined seaming and pinking machine, including a main shaft and areciprocatory needie, a pinking device disposed in cooperative relationto the needle, means for operating said pinking device in timed relationto the needle reciprocations including a counter shaft operativelyconnected with said pinking device, a reduction gear coupling betweensaid shafts including a gear loosely mounted on one of said shafts, aclutch interposed between said loosely mounted gear and its shaft forrendering the pinking device either operative or inoperative, and amanually operable element rotatably mounted on said last mentioned shaftfor cooperation with said clutch to effect a clutching or unclutching ofsaid loosely mounted gear and its shaft.

21. A combined seaming and pinking machine, including a main shaft and areciprocatory nee: dle, a pinking device disposed in cooperativerelation to the needle, and means for-operating said pinking device intimed relation to the needle reciprocations comprising selective meansfor varying the relation of the number of needle reciprocations to eachpink formed in the fabric including a counter shaft operativelyconnected with said pinking device, separate reduction gear couplings ofdifferent ratios connected to one of said shafts, separate clutchesdisposed between the respective couplings and the last mentioned shaft,and an operating element rotatably mounted on the last mentioned shaftfor rendering either clutch effective.

22. A combined seaming and pinking machine, a clutch collar fixed to theshaft on which the including a main shaft and a reciprocatory needle, apinking device disposed in cooperative relation to the needle, and meansfor operating said pinking device in timed relation to the needlereciprocations comprising selective means for varying the relation ofthe number of needle reciprocations to each pink formed in the fabricincluding a counter shaft operatively connected with said pinkingdevice, separate reduction gear couplings of different ratios connectedto one of said shafts, said couplings comprising driving gears anddriven gears, one of the driven gears having a hub supporting the otherdriven gear, a clutch collar fixed to the shaft on which thedriven-gears are journaled, clutch pins adapted to clutch either drivengear and the clutch collar, and an operating element rotatably mountedon the clutch collar shaft for cooperation with the clutch pins foreffecting a clutching action between either driven gear and the clutchcollar.

23. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination with amain frame including a base and an overhanging 'arm, of a verticallyreciprocatory needle mounted on said arm, a main shaft journaled in saidarm and extending longitudinally thereof and operatively connected tosaid needle, a pinking device supported by the base in cooperativerelation to the needle, a bracket attached .to said frame arm, a countershaft journaled in said bracket, operative connections between thepinking device and the counter shaft, a reduction gear coupling betweenthe main shaft and the counter shaft and including agear loosely mountedon the counter shaft, and a manually operable clutch interposed betweensaid loosely mounted gear and the counter shaft for rendering thepinking device either operative or inoperative.

24. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination with amain frame including a base and an overhanging arm, of a verticallyreciprocatory needle mounted on said arm, a. main shaft journ'aled insaid arm and extending longitudinally thereof and operatively connectedto said needle, a pinking device. supported by the base in cooperativerelation to the needle, said pinking device including a ledger bladehaving a V-shaped opening forming converging cutting edges, and acooperating vertically reciprocatory knife having converging cuttingedges, a bracket attached to said frame arm,

a counter shaft journaled in said bracket, operative connections betweenthe reciprocatory knife and the counter shaft, a reduction gear couplingbetween the main shaft and the counter shaft and including a gearloosely mounted on the counter shaft, and a manually operable clutchinterposed between said loosely mounted gear and the counter shaft forrendering the reciprocatory knife either operative or inoperative.

25. A combined seaming and pinking machine, including a main shaft and areciprocatory needle, a pinking device disposed in cooperative relationto the needle, and means for operating said pinking device in timedrelation to the needle reciprocations comprisingselective means forvarying the relation of the number of needle reciprocations to each pinkformed in the fabric including a counter shaft operatively connectedwith said pinking device, separate reduction gear couplings of differentratios connected to one of said shafts, said couplings comprisingdriving gears and driven gears, one of the driven gears having a hubsupporting the other driven gear,

driven gears ar joiii'naled, cliitch pins adapted to clutch eitherdriven gear and the clutch collar, and an operating element rotatablymounted on the clutch collar shaft for coop ration with the clutch pinsfor efiecting a clutching action between either driven gear and theclutch collar, or for effecting the unclutching of both driven gears andthe collar.

26. Acombined seaming and trimming machine 'ving a base and areciprocatory needle, upper nd lower cooperating cutting elementsnormally disposed in ineffective cutting position belowtlie base,manually operable means for raising said cutting elements to effectivecuttin position in cooperative relation to the needle and wherein theupper cutting element is disposed above the base, or foreflecting thedepression of said cutting elements to their normal position below thebase, and means for operating said trimming device in timed relation tothe needle reciprocations including manually operative selectivemeansfor varying the relation of the number of needle reciprocations to thenumber of cuts formed by the cutting elements.

27. A combined seaming and trimming machine having a base and areciprocatory needle, upper and lower cooperating cutting elementsnormally disposed in ineffective cutting position below the base,manually operable means for said cutting elements to their normalposition below the base, and means for operating said trimming device intimed relation to the needle reciprocations including manually"operative selective 'm'eans for varying the, relation of the number ofneedle reciprocations to the number of cuts formed by the cuttingelements including a counter shaft operatively connected with saidtrimming device, separate reduction gear couplings of different ratiosconnected to one of said shafts, said couplings comprising driving gearsand driven gears, one of the driven gears having a hub supporting theother driven gear, a clutch collar fixed to the shaft on which thedriven gears are journaled, clutch pins adapted to clutch either drivengear and the clutch collar, and an operating elementrotatably mounted onthe clutch collar shaft for cooperation with the clutch pins foreffecting a clutching action between either driven gear and the clutchcollar. 28. In a combined .seaming and pinking machine, the combinationwith a main frame including a base and an overhanging arm, ofavertically reciprocatory needle mounted on said arm, a main shaftjournaled in said arm and extending longitudinally thereof andoperatively connected to needle and including a ledger blade spacedabove base and provided with converging cutting edges on its upper endfor cooperation with the cutting edges of the ledger blade during theupstroke of the knife, and means located between the needle and theledger blade for guarding the needle against the fabric chips cut off bythepinking mechanism.

30. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination of a basehaving an opening, a vertically reciprocatory needle, a pinkingmechanism located in cooperative relation to the needle and including aledger blade spaced above the opening of the base and provided with anopening forming converging cutting edges, and a vertically reciprocatoryknife supported below the base and provided with converging cuttingedges on its upper end for cooperation with the cutting edges of theledger blade during the upstroke of the knife, and means located betweenthe needle and the ledger blade for guarding the needle against thefabric chips cut oil? by the pinking mechanism and for directing saidchips over the knife and thence downwardly through the base opening.

31. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination of a basehaving an open- 1 ing, a vertically reciprocatory needle, a pinkingmechanism located in cooperative relation to the chips over the knifeand thence downwardly nism including a vertically reciprocatory needleand a base having an opening at one side of the needle, a supportmounted below the base to oscillate about a horizontal axis, a ledgerblade spaced above the opening and mounted on the support, manuallyoperable means for normally retaining the support against swingingmovement, a knife lever mounted on the support below the base to swingabout "a horizontal axis, a knife mounted on said lever and projectingupwardly through said opening for cooperation with said ledger blade,and means for oscillating said knife lever, said support upon release ofsaid retaining means moving to a position wherein said ledger blade andsaid knife will be in an ineffective cutting position below the base.

33. A combined seaming and trimming mechanism including a verticallyreciprocatory needle and a base having an opening at one side of theneedle, a support mounted below the base to oscillate about a'horizontalaxis, a holder mounted on said support and having an end projectingupwardly through said opening, a ledger blade spaced above theopening'and mounted on the projecting end of the support, manuallyoperable means for normally retaining the support and holder againstswinging movement, a knife lever located below the holder and fulcrumedthereon 'to swing about a horizontal axis, a knife mounted on said leverand projecting upwardly through said between the holder and the lever,said support upon release of said retaining means moving to a positionwherein said ledger blade and said knife will be in an inefiectivecutting position below the base.

'34. The combination of a sewing machine including a base and avertically reciprocatory needle, and a pinking mechanism comprising aledger blade spaced above the base and provided with an opening formingconverging cutting edges, and a vertically reciprocatory knife supportedbelow the base and having converging cutting edges for cooperation withthe cutting edges of the ledger blade, and means for effecting thedepression of the ledger blade and the knife to an ineffective cuttingposition below the base.

35. The combination of a sewing machine including a base, a main shaft,and a vertically reciprocatory needle operatively connected with saidshaft, and a pinking mechanism comprising a horizontally disposed ledgerblade located adjacent the needle and spaced above the base, saidledgerblade being provided with a V-shaped opening, a vertically reciprocatoryknife supported below the base and provided with converging cut I tingedges on its upper end for cooperation with the cutting edges of theledger blade, and driving connections between the main shaft and theknife for reciprocating the latter in timed relation to the needlereciprocations.

36. The combination of a sewing machine including a base, a main shaft,and a vertically reciprocatory needle operatively connected with saidshaft, and a pinking mechanism comprising a horizontally disposed ledgerblade located adjacent the needle and spaced above the base, said ledgerblade being provided with a V-shaped opening, a vertically reciprocatoryknife supported below the base and provided with converging cuttingedges on its upper end for cooperation with the cutting edges of theledger blade, the angle of the cutting edges of the ledger blade beingmore than the, angle of the cutting edges of the knife, means formaintaining the cutting edges of the blade and knife in yieldableengagement with each other, during cutting movements of the knife, and

driving connections including a reduction gear and normally spaced abovethe base, said ledger blade being provided with a V-shaped opening, avertically reciprocatory knife supported below and projecting upwardlythrough the base and provided with converging cutting edges on its upperend for cooperation with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, meansfor efiecting the depression of the blade and knife to an ineffectivecutting position below the base, and driving connections between themain shaft and the knife for reciprocating the latter in timed relationto the needle reciprocations, said driving connections including a.reductiongear coupling mounted on the frame arm, and connections betweensaid coupling and the knife located adjacent the standard.

38. The combination of a sewing machine including a base, a standard, anarm extending lat erally over the base from the upper end of thestandard, a main shaft journaled in said arm, a vertically reciprocatoryneedle mounted on the free end of the arm and having a one-to-onedriving connection with the main shaft; and a. pinking mechanismcomprising a horizontally disposed ledger blade located adjacent theneedle and normally spaced above the base, said ledger blade beingsupported below the base and provided with a V-shaped opening, avertically reciprocatory knife supported below and projecting upwardlythrough the base and provided with ,converging cutting edges on itsupper end for cooperation with the cutting edges of the ledger blade,means for efiecting the depression of the blade and knife to anineffective cutting position below the base, driving connections betweenthe main shaft and the knife for reciprocating the latter in timedrelation to the needle reciprocations, said driving connectionsincluding a reduction gear coupling mounted on the frame arm, andconnections between said coupling and the knife located adjacent thestandard.

' 39. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination with amain frame having a base and an overhanging arm, of a main shaftjournaled in said arm, a vertically reciprocatory needle mounted on thearm, said base having an opening at one side of the needle, and apinking device including a horizontal ledger blade supported above theopening in the base and provided with a V-shaped opening, a verticallyreciprocatory V-shaped knife supported below the base and projectingupwardly through the openingof the base for cooperation with the ledgerblade opening, and driving connections between the main shaft and theknife for reciprocating the latter in timed relation to the needlerecipro cations.

40. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination with amain frame having a base and an overhanging arm, of a main shaftjournaled in said arm, a vertically reciprocatory needle mounted on thearm, said basehaving an opening at one side of the needle, and a pinkingdevice including a horizontal ledger blade supported above the openingin the base and provided with a V-shaped opening, a verticallyreciprocatory V-shaped knife supported below the base and projectingupwardly through the opening of the base for cooperation with the ledgerblade opening, and driving connections between the main shaft and theknife for reciprocating the latter in timed relation to the needlereciprocations, said driving connections including manually operativeselective means for varying the relation of the number of needlereciproca tions to the number of knife reciprocations.

41. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination with amain frame having a base and an overhanging arm, of a main shaftjournaled in said arm, a vertically reciprocatory needle mounted on thearm, said base having an opening at one side of the needle, and apinking device including a horizontal ledger blade supported above theopening in the base and provided with a \l -shaped opening, a verticallyreciprocatory V-shaped knife supported below the base and projectingupwardly through the opening of the base for cooperation with the ledgerblade opening, driving connections between the main shaft and the knifefor reciprocating the latter in timed relation to the needlereciprocations, and means forefiecting the depression of

